I have used many dozens of these adjustable sears over the past 8 years and they work superbly when installed and adjusted correctly. The key as with all gun parts is to have a good working knowledge of the Ruger trigger assembly. I have yet to not have this part reduce pull by more than 50% AND reduce the pre-travel (creep) to nearly zero. I can only assume that the "gunsmith" who installed these parts and didn't like them simply was not familiar with the 10/22 trigger assembly and did not have it set up correctly. These things work and work well. Period.

I've installed a number of trigger and sear sets. Since I had used Power Custom extensively in Ruger Vaqueros for SASS events I thought I'd give their 10/22 set a try. There were no instructions for the pre-travel adjustment. After several trial fits I figured out how that worked (and it didn't work that well). The trigger pull was not what they advertised. Initially it was 3lbs. 14 oz. and gritty. After I polished the snot out of the sear and did quite a bit of smoothing in other areas the grittiness went away and the pull came down to 3lbs 11oz. I purchased 2 of these sets. Needless to say one will go back and be replaced with the Clark. I've had great success with the Clark.

Easy to install. Took E Boats' suggestion and it makes the final adjustments very easy to accomplish. Found the new set-up cut my group sizes down to less then .5 inches on the test range with the original barrel. Can't wait to see what it will do with a target barrel.

I installed this set on my new Ruger with plastic trigger housing last night. Took my 1.5 hours including polishing the factory hammer hook to reduce creep. Got the factory 7lb trigger down to between 3.25lb and 3.5lbs.



The parts are very high quality. The shims enabled consistent trigger pull but not easy to put in unless you use some grease or oil to keep them in place. The cheater pin works great but needs to be longer. I knock 1 star off for this reason.



Unless you drill a hole in the trigger, you'll be spending time disassembling trigger group and adjusting the set screw. Well worth the money if you're not comfortable removing metal from factory trigger parts.

The Pre-travel adjustment is a great feature.
You really need to drill an access hole in the trigger for the adjustment wrench.
To drill an access hole, you first remove the adjustment screw from the sear, then install the sear within the trigger. Take a punch, and mark the trigger from the inside through the vacant adjustment screw hole.
Remove the sear, and from the inside of the trigger drill a .125" hole.
This will give ample wrench clearance throughout the entire adjustment range of the preset.
Assemble the trigger mechanism and tighten the pre-travel (hammer cocked) until you feel the setscrew stop. Back it off a turn or so, and go from there.
You need to be 100% sure the hammer resets, so you might end up with a teensy-weensey amount of pretravel to get a 100% safe and reliable trigger, if you dial every little bit of pretravel out, you might not have enough leeway in the system.
IMPORTANT- You MUST test the pretravel in a completely assembled rifle, sometimes (usually in a very snug trigger housing to receiver fit)once installed there will be pressure/tweaking on the housing and the pretravel will have to be fine
tuned.
Other than that, the quality is there, and with a trigger overtravel stop you can get a match grade trigger from a good factory trigger housing.

Instructions are ok, but would be better if a note would mention drilling a hole through the upper part of the trigger to match where the pre-travel adjustment screw is located above so as to allow adjustment from outside the housing w/o having to disassemble the entire unit. It advertises a 2.5-3# pull, but I couldn't get it below 3.5#. The customer service at Power Custom told me that the new housings for the 10-22 in some way seemed to keep pull weights above 3.25# or better. And that pre -travel adjustment is VERY touchy; get it off by just a tad and the hammer won't set..

Power Custom makes good stuff overall, but I'm just so-so on this particular item.

Just bought this for my new Ruger 10/22. I have zero gunsmithing experience. I gave it 4 stars vs. 5 as the enclosed directions were marginal. Having said that, it came with everything needed including the bushings which weren't show in the picture- I bought an extra set believing I'd need them. The video says 20 minutes, and I believe that true for someone with experience. I took my time, examing schematic and replaying video on youtube and I had it done in about 1-1.5 hours, but that included stock/barrel band removal etc. I don't have a trigger gauge, but it certainly provided a noticeable difference. Keep in mind, I have zero gunsmithing experience and my patience is not high....

Instructions are minimal at best, but the Brownells DYI YouTube is great. I installed this kit in my 1972 carbine. Trigger pull after install was crisp, but 4 to 4.25 lbs. The hammer shims were a tight fit, so I removed them. New trigger return spring seemed stiffer than the stock, so I reinstalled the stock spring. These two changes resulted in a trigger pull of 2.75 - 3.0 lbs. Pre-travel adjustment requires complete disassembly to adjust, check, readjust, check etc. Not sure I would spend extra money for the pre-travel version.

Description says "complete instructions included." Not in the one I received. Not on their web site, either.

I was surprised how easy this was to install and how much of a difference it made. Good crisp break, it can be adjusted for 0 pre-travel and drops pull down to 2.25 pounds.
It comes with the bushings for the new style hammers.